Sunday 5 September 2010

Palmerston Island, Cook Islands; Sunday 5 September 2010 בס"ד

Woke up at 0635 for galley duty. It was still pouring down hard, and the wind was gusting. Throughout the night I had several near heart attacks when the anchor chain would come slack and then pull taught at short stay and make a huge crashing sound in the spill pipes. I even think the chain jumped a few links in the wildcat of the windlass. Scary when you're anchored to a treacherous reef. Cooked fried eggs while Nadja made waffles and we served breakfast in the salon. After breakfast, cleaned the dishes, scrubbed out the grill from yesterday, and prepared sandwiches and salad for the oncoming watch. The Captain came back aboard, and pointed out to me and Nadja the crossing swells made in the lee of the island, as pertains to Polynesian wayfinding navigation. He also told me, “I've got a big book for you to read, Salt,” and I was like, “Oh I've heard of this book,” and he said, “No, I called you Salt.” I thought it was quite an honor to be called Salt by the Captain, although I'm positive it is because of the Hebrew מלח/מלח (melakh/malakh = salt/sailor) that I'd explained to him before. Got a shark tooth from the sharkhead, then boarded the Palmerston boat at about 1145 and came in the gusting winds through the reef. Landed and went right to Paul and Sue's carrying some supplies from the ship. We sat around talking, and had a tasty lunch. It is Father's Day in the Cook Islands today, and so all the menfolk sat around the table drinking and talking. I was there the entire day, which merged from lunch to talking to drinking to dinner to talking to drinking, and many people came in and out. I had a great time bonding with my host family all day long, and talked about their lives and culture and mine. I also learned Paul's name is actually Ngu Paura. Towards the end of the night, I had a good arm wrestling match with John, my Maori אחי (I taught him the Hebrew word for “my brotha”). I had heard the other day Paul had not been able to replace his watch for a long time and they had no clock, so I gave him my old Seiko watch that I've worn for years. Now I'm truly tired, and have left the dining hut for the first time today for bed.